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An angle grinder is an essential part of every tile setter's tool chest. Often the setter uses a wet saw for straight and L-shaped cuts and an angle grinder for the custom cuts that pop up along the way, such as the tile surrounding a floor drain. An angle grinder, sometimes called a side grinder, equipped with a diamond-studded blade cuts ceramic tile without breaking or chipping its glazed surface.
Although an angle grinder equipped with the correct diamond blade will make any cut, that does not necessarily make it the correct tool for the job. A wet saw makes consistent cuts with a perfect edge. A manual cutter makes straight break cuts. A tile setter uses handheld nippers to remove small chips and slivers. An angle grinder excels at making odd-shaped and small cuts.
When it comes to cutting tile, the blade truly matters. A tile-cutting blade uses tiny diamond chips along its edge to grind and cut through porcelain and ceramic tile. Better quality blades tend to last longer and cut quicker than the inferior models because they contain more diamonds.
A masonry-style diamond blade also works on tile. This type of diamond blade utilizes serrated dust channels along its edge to whisk away concrete dust. Masonry blades cut soft tile well; however, the dust channels tend to chip the tile's glazing when grinding curves or if used aggressively. Cutting, grinding, or sanding disks designed for metal or wood will not work on tile. A blade's size should match the grinder it is used on.
Place a tile-cutting blade on the side grinder's arbor with the blade's directional arrow matching the tool's directional arrow. A blade installed with a backward rotation still cuts tile. However, when used this way, the blade sheds diamonds quickly, and its lifespan quickly diminishes.
Verify the blade's brass arbor bushing centers the blade on the grinder's arbor. The bushing keeps the blade centered on the arbor. Hand-tighten the arbor nut. Engage the tool's blade locking feature, then finish tightening the nut with the grinder's spanner wrench.
A craftsman envisions the finished product while laying out the project. Simple adjustments sometimes eliminate sliver or angle cuts. Unfortunately, even with the best layout, custom cuts occasionally happen. When this happens, make all relevant measurements and transfer them to a tile. Use a speed square and pencil to draw simple cuts, such as straight or angled, on the tile's glazed surface.
Plan complicated cuts, such as curves and holes, on both the finished and unfinished sides. Keep in mind the reverse layout is a mirror image of the final cut. Make the curved portion of the reverse layout slightly smaller, leaving room for the blade's arc to cut threw the tile without making the visible part of the cut too large. These cuts often require a rough cut on the back and a finish trim from the glazed surface.
Score a 1/16-inch deep outline of the cut on the tile's glazed surface with the angle grinder. Remove as many large unwanted easy cuts as possible. Often it is easier to break complicated cuts down into several small, easy cuts and trims. This should leave the indents and curves.
Flip the tile over to verify the layout lines roughly match the inside of the score mark and adjust as necessary. Make the cut. This leaves the cutout slightly smaller than the finished product. Shave the unfinished tile of the tile edge until the cut fits. Test the cut before installing.
This article is accurate and true to the best of the author’s knowledge. Content is for informational or entertainment purposes only and does not substitute for personal counsel or professional advice in business, financial, legal, or technical matters.
© 2022 Bert Holopaw