Wicker is considered a timeless weaving technique which can create a wide range of durable homewares products for indoor and outdoor spaces. This blog will provide you insights about two types of wicker, and how they apply into different corners. Have a read!
The term “wicker” describes a technique of weaving to create furniture and homewares, dating as far back as 5,000 years ago. The use of flexible plants like rattan and marsh grasses was first observed in ancient Egypt, but in current times, people make use of other malleable plants such as seagrass, water hyacinth, corn husk for natural wicker products.
Wicker is the technique of weaving fibers into homewares and furnitureToday, wicker is probably among the primary choices for indoor and outdoor decoration. Wicker not only looks good with its natural color palette, but it can also create vibrant shades, from basic sun-inspired décor to ocean breezes.
Aside from handcrafted in Vietnam furniture, wicker is now put into use for both decor and storage like wicker baskets bulk. Wicker has also been widely applied in a broad assortment in the home industry. Some popular products such as wicker hamper basket, wicker mirror round, wicker pots for plants, and wicker tray decor can be found in the bedroom, kitchen, living room, patios, and other outside spaces.
Natural wicker is traditionally made from plant origin. It can be weaved with bamboo, rattan, seagrass, water hyacinth and many diverse natural plants. Meanwhile, outdoor wicker (all-weather wicker) is produced from synthetic fibers like Resin and Vinyl, with a uniform aesthetic impression. The man-made materials, when combined with aluminum frames, do not corrode and are simple to store and preserve when not in use.
While natural wicker is made from natural plants, outdoor wicker use synthetic fibers.Obviously, the properties of natural wicker don’t suit outdoor use, especially in case of dampness, rain, snow, and other types of bad weather. Therefore, natural wicker products shouldn’t be exposed to direct sunlight and should be kept out of damp, high-humidity areas. Otherwise, they will lose their original color, become moldy, or get excessively dry, brittle, and break.
In contrast, synthetic resin wicker (outdoor wicker) can be utilized both inside and outside the home. Outdoor wicker closely resembles traditional wicker (such as rattan or willow) in appearance and maintains best features such as durability and flexibility. Synthetic wicker is immune to external elements as it is extremely robust, moisture-resistant, and resistant to fading, staining, and cracking. Additionally, synthetic wicker is less expensive and easier to clean than natural wicker.
Natural WickerOutdoor WickerDefinitiona weaving technique using natural pliable materials to manufacture homewares and furniture a type of weaving using synthetic, plastic fibers to manufacture outdoor homewares and furniture Materialsseagrass, water hyacinth, bamboo, rattan, corn husk, banana leaf/bark, etc.HDPE, PVCAppearancehaving a earthy color; soft, rustic texture;having a similar look to rattan; different colors.Properties– Advantages: eco-friendly, relatively durable, visually appealing;Many people mistakenly think that rattan and wicker are the same thing but in fact, they are two different things. Rattan is a natural material for making homewares and home goods wholesale. However, wicker is actually a type of weaving or a process for making household items out of pliable plants. Let’s learn more details about Differences between Rattan vs Wicker.
Yes, natural wicker is. This type of wicker is typically made from rapidly renewable, biodegradable plants. A common water hyacinth, for instance, can double in size in just five to fifteen days, making it one of the fastest-growing plants in the world. Water hyacinth and many other materials for natural wicker can grow without the use of pesticides, which helps reduce carbon footprint or environmental impacts.
PE wicker and PVC wicker are typical materials for outdoor wicker. PE stands for polyethylene, and PVC is polyvinyl chloride, both of which are high-molecular polymers.
In today’s home furnishings, according to Leisure Touch Rattan, 90% of outdoor wicker for weaving is made of HDPE (high density polyethylene), an upgraded polymer with excellent performance. HDPE is a thermoplastic resin created through ethylene polymerization. The substance HDPE has a light-specific gravity and is opaque white in color.
PVC is an amorphous substance that typically takes the shape of a white resin or a light yellow powder. It cannot be utilized independently, thus it must first be adjusted before it can be used. During the production of wicker with the use of PVC material, stabilizers, lubricants, auxiliary processing aids, colors, reinforcing agents, and other additives are frequently used.
Synthetic fibers are often processed into thin, flat strands that look like rattan.These materials are often processed into uniform flat, oval strands, and these are woven over iron frames into furniture and other products. In the weaving, the strands are moved horizontally in an over-under pattern between vertical spokes to achieve a durable piece. Synthetic wicker is available in a variety of colors.
Although both HDPE and PVC are plastic, they differ in hardness, transparency, applicability, strength, etc. When used for outdoor furniture, HDPE wicker is more durable than PVC wicker due to its increased strength. The quality of HDPE is not influenced by changes in temperature and other weather conditions, so HDPE wicker products may be placed outside year-round without experiencing any issues.
Furthermore, HDPE wicker has increased moisture resistance without doing harm to human health. Last but not least, HDPE wicker rattan has a more elegant and natural appearance than PVC wicker. As a result, HDPE wicker and rattan are becoming more and more common in the outdoor furniture sector.
As mentioned before, outdoor wicker is invulnerable to the inclement environment. As regard to synthetic wickers, UV light poses no problem; their function can last long even when exposed to outdoors 24/7. Not only patio furniture, all-weather wicker has been used in various products for outdoor spaces, including planters, lampshades, lanterns, birdhouses, and garden decor items.
Meanwhile, natural wicker is susceptible to moisture and UV damage. The impacts of continual UV exposure and moisture retention first appear as faded colors, damaged surfaces, and straining on products. There are still several natural wicker products which can be used for outdoor decor such as party tablewares, patio chairs, and portable lanterns. Be sure that your customers use natural wicker for porches, patios, balconies, and sheltered gardens, and keep it out of intense sun heat and direct rain at all times.
The response depends on the type of wicker itself. All-weather wicker doesn’t actually get affected when exposed to water. This wonderful property has made outdoor wicker a favorite material in every home use. On the other hand, natural wicker can be adversely impacted by high humidity, especially soft, fibrous plants such as seagrass and water hyacinth. In case natural wicker is soaking wet, it is best to dry it out as quickly and thoroughly as you can to avoid mold and damage like crack or losing its original shape.
Although natural wicker has many outstanding advantages, it is highly susceptible to mold due to the hygroscopic properties. Even natural wicker products are already dried and processed properly, mold on wicker basket still can appear over time if maintained in a moist or humid atmosphere. These microorganisms will leave stains and unpleasant odors on homewares and furniture.
Mold easily grows on natural wicker homewares and furniture in wet conditions.Mold removal from wicker furniture can be accomplished with either ammonia or bleach. To clean the furniture of any loose dirt, use a feather duster. Then, use a soft-bristled brush dipped in a mixture of 50% water and 50% bleach to scrub all affected areas to remove mold. If you choose to use ammonia, mix two tablespoons of it with one gallon of water to create a cleaning solution.
After that, apply the solution by using the spray method or the wet cloth approach. Do not forget to scrub it with a fresh, damp sponge. Finally, be sure to let the wicker furniture air dry in a shaded, non-humid part of the yard.
If you want to extend the life cycle of natural wicker homewares and furniture, you should follow the careful preservation required, even if these natural wicker products are designed to stay inside. Be careful to keep natural wicker homewares and furniture clean by removing as much surface dust as you can with a vacuum or a brush.
In case that these products have stubborn stains or mold, we recommend that you use a soft brush and water that has been soapy-added with one or two tablespoons of ammonia, and then wash the wicker. Rinse the items thoroughly and allow it to air dry in the sun. To clean hard-to-reach areas, you can also use a soft toothbrush. Your wicker furniture should stay quite spotless if you incorporate this vacuuming and dusting into your normal cleaning routine. Additionally, periodic touch-ups with a fresh coat of paint or replacing frayed strands helps keep it looking good.
Outdoor wicker products are highly durable and require little to no maintenance.Outdoor wicker might be a perfect material for those who detest maintenance schedules and expensive cleaners. When wicker furniture is dust-covered, you just need to gently wipe it with a soft brush and the product will look like new again. What if it becomes stained? Gently wipe it away with a little warm water. Unlike natural rattan or iron outdoor furniture, the products does not corrode or generate mold.
Traditional or natural wicker cannot be used outdoors for extended periods of time, however, all-weather wicker can. Both two types of wicker have different appearance, distinctive properties and suitable applications, just consider the categories you plan to buy first and then materials!
As weavers we are really spoiled for choice when it comes to yarns. You would think this would make the task of choosing appropriate yarn for our projects easier, but for beginner rigid heddle weavers it can be a very difficult field to navigate.
One of my most asked questions is “How do I know which yarn to use with which heddle size for which project?” Basically, where on earth do I begin?!
If this topic is interesting to you, I recommend my online class What do all the numbers mean? This class really demystifies the figures involved with weaving and knitting yarns and also gives you some handy conversion charts.
It is a little difficult to know how to best structure this kind of information in an easy to understand format, so I began by going through some of my weaving projects that I knew I could talk about and use as examples to discuss yarns.
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In all weaving, you begin with the warp, so it makes sense to start there. Doing a snap test will help determine whether the yarn you want to use for warp is going to be strong enough – you don’t want broken threads. Yes, they are fixable (this video shows you how) but not so ideal.
In choosing for your first projects, I highly recommend knitting wool. It’s economical, easy to use, accessible and thick. I use Bendigo Woollen Mills Luxury 8 ply a lot, it is a light worsted/ dk weight and pairs perfectly with the 7.5 or 8 dent heddle that comes with any new rigid heddle loom. It is perfect for wearables, as it’s lovely and soft. Which brings me to the next point.
If you intend to wear your woven piece, give it the face brush test. Hold the yarn up against your cheek and lightly rub. If it feels too scratchy, you’re not going to like wearing it and it’s best saved for something else!
Consider the cost of the yarn you intend to use. If you are a less experienced weaver, don’t go for that beautiful, expensive yarn – it will only put pressure on and stress you out. Use something affordable until you have more confidence.
This scarf is a good example of a balanced plain weave piece using light worsted/ dk yarn with my 7.5 dent heddle. A piece like this is great for beginners and an excellent opportunity to practice neat edges.
Before beginning a project, it’s really important to figure out the best sett for your chosen yarn. All you need is an inch ruler and your yarn. Once you have more experience, you may not need to do the test every time, but it’s a must for beginners. Here’s how:
A good example of a project using wool is my Garden Path Scarf pattern. This pattern is my best seller and I myself love to wear my assortment of GP scarves! I love that it looks a bit like lace knitting.
Woven with a lighter 4 ply Australian merino (fingering weight) it is light and airy but still warm to wear, thanks to the wool. I wouldn’t necessarily say that it’s an absolute beginners project, but it is actually not as difficult to weave as it looks!
I must give a caution at this point when it comes to blended yarns. Depending on what the blend is, it can make a nightmare out of your project.
For this “special” scarf I use a silk/ merino/ sparkle weft and a baby alpaca warp. All painstakingly hand dyed. I didn’t know until later that often, yarns with a silk blend will not always grip other yarns like, say a wool on wool will grip. So, I ended up with uneven weaving resulting in warp threads showing at the selvedges. It was an expensive mistake, but one that I’ve never forgotten (or repeated!)
A lot of spinners also become weavers, and what a wonderful progression and integration of one art form into another. Handspun can definitely be used to weave with, and gives a very different look to commercial yarns. The main things to consider with handpsun:
*Does it hold up to the snap test?
*Which heddle is going to suit best?
Spun yarn can be inconsistent, depending on how it has been spun and what the spinner is wanting to achieve, but if you use your inch ruler to determine sett, you won’t have any problems choosing the right heddle.
Cotton is also a great choice, but should be chosen a little more carefully for beginners. In fact, my Beginner Rigid Heddle Weaving course project uses the popular US cotton, Sugar n Cream. It is an aran weight yarn, thicker than light worsted, so it weaves up quickly. It’s pretty darn cheap to buy too! And, it’s just right for your 7.5 or 8 dent heddle. In Australia, Sugar n Cream is available from Knit, Spin, Weave.
I wouldn’t advise an inexperienced weaver to start out with a thinner cotton, there are too many extra things to consider. Your success is far more guaranteed with a thicker, more manageable cotton.
When you have gained that experience, you may want to explore weaving kitchen towels and other, finer pieces. This is where your 8/2 cotton comes in nicely. It is readily available, reasonably economical, strong and multi purpose. My personal favourite is Maurice Brassard 8/2 cotton because, out of all the cottons I’ve tried, it is the most consistent and reliable. It is unmercerised, which is my big preference over mercerised. In Australia you can purchase Maurice Brassard yarns at the Thread Collective.
My Happy Fibonnaci Towels project is available as a downloadable PDF and also as an online class.
I’ll give cottolin a quick mention, because it’s my favourite yarn for weaving kitchen towels. Linen on it’s own can be difficult to manage, but a blend of linen and cotton is a match made in heaven!
You can buy cottolin in dyed, undid, bleached, unbleached and half bleached – lots of choices! I love the natural look of the half bleached. Once again, Maurice Brassard 22/2 is what I use. Don’t be confused by the numbers, linen is measured differently to cotton, so the 22/2 cottolin is very similar to 8/2 cotton size. Cottolin is so absorbent and after washing, so soft, I love it!
Now onto another personal favourite, bamboo. It’s available in a number of different sizes. One that I use very often is Bambu 7, which is available in Australia from BB Yarn Supply. A suitable alternative is Valley 5/2 bamboo and for a thinner weight, Maurice Brassard 8/2 bamboo.
I used Bambu 7 recently for the scarf project for my Table Loom Weaving course. The results speak for themselves!
Another weaving yarn I love is tencel. This is an interesting fibre, manufactured from wood pulp. It is similar to bamboo in that it has a high sheen and is silky. It is very light and even though it comes in 8/2 size, it seems quite thin. I use Maurice Brassard 8/2 tencel. I’ve woven a number of pieces with tencel and have never been disappointed. It also takes dye beautifully. Once again, not a beginner’s yarn!
The Galaxy Scarf PDF pattern uses a combination of bamboo and tencel, with great effect! The two yarns together have a beautiful drape and work perfectly for light garments.
Last, but not least, we have silk. There is no denying the gorgeousness of silk, but it’s not the easiest yarn to weave with, especially if it’s very fine.
It is extremely light and almost “glows”, particularly if you use certain colour combinations. The project above was woven with 60/2 silk at 40 ends per inch on my floor loom. This yarn in definitely not cheap, so for special projects only.
In the following Youtube videos, I go through lots of my own projects and explain the yarns and heddles used and why. I hope you enjoy them!